Ryokan Yamato-ya

Ryokan Yamato-ya turns its interior into a private gallery. Works associated with Matisse, Chagall and Picasso appear alongside ceramics by Rosanjin, so the route from tatami room to bath passes through a dense and sometimes surprising collection rather than neutral hotel corridors.

Akayu’s hot-spring water runs free-flowing into the large communal bath. The bath itself is straightforward and indoor, allowing the mineral water to remain the focus. Warm wood and tatami in the guest rooms provide a calmer counterpoint to the art on display.

Dinner is a seasonal kaiseki that uses Yamagata ingredients, including Yonezawa beef and, on applicable menus, sea urchin. Yamato-ya is best suited to travellers who enjoy the idiosyncrasy of a personal collection and a food-led stay. The building has age and character, with art and cooking carrying more weight than polished resort facilities.