WA Tei Kazekomichi
28-18 Umezono-cho, Atami City, Shizuoka Prefecture 413-0032
¥¥¥¥ · Traditional Ryokan
WA亭 風こみち sits on a steep hillside above the city of Atami, reached by a narrow approach road that opens onto a lobby lounge with an unobstructed view across the rooftops to Sagami Bay. The building descends the slope across four floors, with all eight rooms oriented to face the water. On clear mornings, Hatsushima Island sits as a low shape on the horizon, a fixed reference point as the bay shifts through its range of color from pre-dawn grey to full daylight.
The central experience of a stay is the private kakenagashi rotenburo in each room: a spacious granite basin fed continuously with calcium-sodium sulfate-chloride water drawn from Atami's volcanic substrate. The mineral-rich water flows without recirculation, filling the bath fresh at all times. Guests typically arrive to find it already warm and waiting. The inn also offers a communal bath for those who prefer a different bathing context, alongside a ganbanyoku mineral rock room and sauna for a complete bathing sequence.
The kitchen applies equal seriousness to its craft. Kaiseki dinner and breakfast are served at an intimate two-person counter, a contemporary format that replaces in-room nakai service with something closer to culinary theatre. The head chef personally sources natural deep-layer mineral water from the Amagi aquifer as a cooking ingredient, alongside fresh fish landed at Izu's coastal ports, seasonal mountain vegetables, and a curated selection of regional sake. Courses arrive on tableware selected to complement each dish in color and texture, and the meal rating of 4.77 on Ikyu reflects the consistency of the kitchen's execution.
With only eight rooms and an adults-only policy, the inn operates at a scale where individual attention comes naturally. Staff provide a free shuttle from Atami Station and carry luggage on the staircase at check-in and checkout; the hillside building has no elevator, so rooms are reached on foot. The rooms are finished in a modern Japanese idiom, with yukata, cotton nightwear, full tea service, and quality toiletries as standard. The eight rooms take their names from chapters of the Tale of Genji, a quiet nod to classical culture threaded through an otherwise contemporary register.
The property rewards guests who come for the onsen and the table above all else. In the cooler months of autumn and winter, when steam rises from the outdoor basin into cold air and the bay deepens beneath an overcast sky, the experience reaches its fullest register. The image that stays after a stay here is simple: lying in the warm flow of mineral water at dawn, watching Hatsushima Island emerge from the sea mist as the first light catches the surface of Sagami Bay.